How Are People Going To Dispose Of Their Trash, Garbage, And Waste After TSHTF?

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1. I MUST FIRST EXPLAIN that you SHOULD GO TO A PROFESSIONAL SEPTIC TANK placement Company, and get their advice.

   The below Article is based upon my experience, and the training that the Pros gave me, BUT!!!

   I’m NOT a PRO, so check with them…If I’ve missed ANYthing, they’ll correct it! DO NOT SIMPLY FOLLOW MY DIRECTIONS, (tho thoroughly EXACT as to what I learned), I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL, so my advice should ONLY be YOUR beginer’s learning step.
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   From the late 1990’s to EARLY 2000’s, wifey & I lived on a 5.7 acre plot, (with 1/3 ridge land), in E. Tenn. (Seveirville). We bought the land RAW…5 ft. high grass, NOTHING else except rocks, a creek, and the Appalachian Ridge line, (as our back yard), et al.

   First thing we did was cut the grass, then set up our trailer, and THEN have a “natural septic” & “bleed lines” put in. It was done by a couple of professionals, but they were “MOUNTAIN MEN”, and therefore, taught me, step by step, what they did, and why.

   Amazingly, (tho it WILL be exhausting work), it’s VERY DOABLE by hand! The problems to solve are:

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   #1] Constructing a “Septic Tank”, (which must be concrete), 10′ long, X 6′ wide, X 4′ deep. With 6″ thick walls & 8″ thick floor. {BEFORE BEGINNING THIS CONSTRUCTION, PLEASE REFER TO THE COUNSEL ON “SOIL TYPE” in the #6 job description below}

   #2] Get the TANK into position…THIS WILL TAKE SOME HEAVY LIFTERS! AND, is the most important & difficult part of the job!!!

   #3] The Septic tank HAS to be above the highest “bleeder line” — ditches — by at LEAST 20%, — going from the Septic’s drain spout, [bottom center of Tank], {with the Tank SLIGHTLY tilted [7%?] in the direction of the “bleeder lines” [“BLs].

   #4] The “BL”‘s have to have a gradual (20%) downward slant, from beginning (septic drain spout to end of the [BL] line…AND, must form a 3 ditch formation of a square “Z”, [with the BOTTOM horizontal “leg” [of the “Z”], coming out of the Septic, and the the TOP horizontal “leg” [of the “Z”], going away from the septic Tank. The “legs” should be at LEAST 25 yrds. long.(15 yrds. longer if possible). Then the “vertical backbone of the “Z” should be at least 50+ yrds.(50 yrds. longer if possible)

   #5] Also, the Septic Tank HAS GOT TO BE [at LEAST], 20% ABOVE the ENTIRE “BL” field…so, you MIGHT have to use the discarded dirt from the BL’s as a base to raise the Septic Tank above the lines.

   And, LASTLY, BUT NOT LEASTLY!!!:

   #6] Your “field” must also have some absorbent type of soil to “bleed” the toxic waste into, which will be able to pass on the waste into the natural process of regeneration.

   NOTE: RESEARCH IS NECESSARY — BEFORE EVER ATTEMPTING INSTALLING A SEPTIC — IT IS NECESSARY TO ASCERTAIN WHAT TYPE OF SOIL BASE YOUR YARD HAS!!!! DO THIS RESEARCH NOW!!!! (once TSHTF, and you’re dealing with TEOTWAWKI, you’ll not have the tech. capability, (nor professional counsel) available)! AND!

   A SEPTIC that hasn’t the soil absorption ratio necessary will simply “back up”, “clog up”, and endanger your home, family and neighborhood!!!!! THIS ARTICLE IS SIMPLY A “HINT” as to a method to better rid your area of waste products…BUT! NOT A PROFESSIONAL EVALUATION…DO YOUR OWN HOME WORK! It CAN work…IF done properly…

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